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 Shibui Kimono
      Glossary

Japanese Textile Terms

Asa:
Fabric made of hemp, usually worn in summer.

Bingata:
A polychrome stencil dying technique developed in Okinawa.

Fukuro-Obi:
A type of Obi appropriate for formal and semiformal occasions. Fukuro means double-fold or bag. It is made of two different fabrics, which are sewn together. The pattern only appears on one side.

Fukusa:
A piece of square fabric, often embroidered or intricately woven with auspicious symbols such as cranes, treasure ships or fans. It is used to wrap or cover a special gift and is often embellished on the back with the family crest or “mon” of the giver of the gift.

Furisode:
A type of Kimono for unmarried women worn at weddings, Coming-of-Age Day, and parties. The surface is designed with graceful patterns. The total length of the sleeves is longer than other Kimono.

Geta:
Wooden soled sandals

Hakama:
Pleated, loose over trouser largely used in men’s formal dress, worn over the kosode or kimono.

Hanten:
Festival jacket, often called “happi coat”, usually made of indigo dyed cotton with white designs and calligraphy decorating the surface.

Haori:
A Kimono jacket originally worn only by men. After the Meiji-era women were allowed to wear haori as well. They became very popular in the Taisho period (1912-1926).

Heko Obi:
Obi usually worn by children or men made of soft fabric and often decorated with shibori designs.

Hitoe:
A type of Kimono that doesn’t have lining and is usually worn in the summer.

Hitotsumi:
Long kimono for infants worn on the family’s first visit to the Shinto shrine for a ceremony somewhat like a “christening”. The ceremony called a “miyamairi” usually takes place when the child is about 30 days old. Prayers are offered to wish for their growth and bright future.

Houmongi:
A type of semiformal Kimono that can be worn at any age and any occasions from a formal ceremony to daily occasions such as visiting a friend’s house. Less formal than Furisode. Sumptuous design completely covers Houmongi.

Juban:
Worn under the kimono for warmth and to keep the kimono from getting worn or stained. Often decorated with yuzen or shibori dyed patterns. Also called a naga-juban.

Kakejiku:
Hanging scroll painted on silk or paper, usually with silk brocade borders and a wood, bone or ceramic roller at the bottom. Often depicts iconic Japanese images such as Sun and Waves, Cranes, Birds, Fish, Waterfalls, seasonal leaves and flowers, and various poetry written in elegant calligraphic script.

Kasuri:
Fabric woven with threads that have been pre-dyed to produce a motif. Sometimes called ikat.

Kamon:
Family crest which appears on Kimono sleeve, shoulders and center back indicating levels of formality. No crests appear on informal Kimono. Also called Mon.

Kimono:
Literally translated from the Japanese simply means “something to wear” and therefore can refer to long and short kimono, obi, and hanten.

Maru-Obi:
A type of Obi in which patterns are woven on double wide fabric that is folded and stitched so both sides are patterned. It is worn with formal Kimono.

Meisen:
Silk woven with dyed cocoon in Kasuri or ikat technique. Often has dynamic art nouveau style patterns and was extremely popular from 1910 to 1950.

Michiyuki:
A double breasted Kimono coat, usually with snaps and fabric covered buttons.

Nishijin:
Fabrics woven in the Nishijin area of Kyoto featuring gorgeous patterns with various colors of threads, often incorporating urushi or lacquered threads.

Obi:
A belt for Kimono. Types vary according to formality of the occasion and sumptuousness of the fabrics, ranging from the very formal, double sided Maru-Obi; the single decorated side of the less formal Fukuro-Obi; a recent development called a Nagoya-Obi which uses still less fabric, to the half width, informal Hanhaba-Obi.

Rinzu:
Damask woven silk with a repeated design. The silk is usually thick and glossy.

Shibori:
Fabric dye technique in which areas are tied tightly to resist the dye. When the dyed fabric is untied a natural pucker is produced that gives the surface a distinctive texture.

Tomesode:
The most formal Kimono worn by a married woman at weddings and other official celebrations. Usually black, they feature a pattern only at the bottom along with the Kamon or family crests.

Uchikake:
Full length outer robe now part of traditional bridal costume. Hemline is padded with cotton for dramatic effect.

Urushi:
Lacquered thread produced by twisting lacquered foil with threads while weaving.

Yukata:
Unlined cotton Kimono worn as casual garment in the summer.

Yuzen:
Colorful hand-dyeing technique where each pattern is drawn by hand, creating often one of a kind, or very limited production pieces.

Zori:
Sandals, usually with leather, straw or cork soles. Traditionally worn with split toed white socks called “tabi”.